Part 3 - Planting The Seeds

When starting seeds in containers (eg. in a greehouse) before setting them out onto a restoration plot, use a "soil-less" potting mixture of peat moss, perlite and vermiculite (ratio 1:1:1), or diatomaceous earth. Either mixture should be available from most garden supply stores. These mixtures are free of competing weeds and damaging diseases or pests.

Standard potting trays or flats are acceptable. However, prairie plants will quickly develop deep, extensive root systems, so avoid using containers less than 5 cm (2 ) deep. The seeds can be planted in deep plug trays (15-20 cm or 6-8 inches deep) with 2 to 3 seeds per plug tray. Fill the trays with the soil-less mixture, pressing it firmly, and water it well; or first fill a bag with the ‘soil' mixture, moisten it and then fill the plugs with the pre moistened soil. It is better to sow the treated seeds onto a moist surface, then press them in firmly but not deeply, or you could cover them lightly with a sprinkling of earth, using an old flour sifter works well. Remember, light helps most prairie seeds to germinate.

Cover the container with plastic or a light cloth. If the surface begins to dry, mist with a sprayer and do not water heavily. Too much water promotes the growth of fungi. Once a number of seedlings have appeared, uncover the containers. Fertilize for the first time (use a 7-7 phosphorous-potassium fertilizer, nitrogen is not recommended for very young seedlings) following the directions on the container, and water as required until the plants are large enough to transplant to the site usually in 6 to 8 weeks. Seeds can also be planted in flat trays and individual plants can be separated out after the roots have filled the tray.

If you plant seed directly into the restoration plot, the site must be prepared ahead of time. Site preparation work should be done during the fall prior to the planting year, and again in the spring. Seeding of prairie plants will have higher success rates if it is done in late June to early July. Choose a sunny spot, most prairie plants require a minimum of eight hours of sunlight, and take time in the spring to remove competing weeds prior to seeding. Weeds can be removed by hand or by applying a short-lived glyphosate herbicide (e.g. Round-Up). Try not to till or turn the soil too much. Prairie plants prefer a well packed seed bed and tillage brings additional weed seeds to the surface where they will germinate. Allow several weeks to prepare the seed bed, letting new batches of weeds germinate, then remove them. Weed control is critical in restoration planting. Depending on the site, the soil constituency, the history of cultivation etc., herbicide applications can vary from one to three or more times.

Sprinkle the prairie seeds evenly over the seed bed and lightly rake them into the soil surface. To help ensure an evenly distributed surface of seed, it helps to mix the seed with some sand before broadcasting (either by hand or machine), this also helps to make sure that you do not run out of seed before covering the entire surface. If a roller press is available (e.g a lawn roller), roll the seedbed with the press. If not, walk over them, or drive over them with an ATV or a truck to increase the seed/soil contact. After pressing the site, the soil should only compress about 1-2 cm with a boot print. Water the site gently. You can cover the seeds with burlap, a weed-free mulch (enough to cover the surface, about 5 cm), or straw mat; this will help to maintain adequate soil moisture. This is recommended but not necessary as prairie seeds are adapted to an unpredictable water supply. Water gently as necessary, until you have plenty of seedlings established, then gently remove any covering over the seedlings. It is possible to damage the seedlings when removing this material so be very careful. After this point water less frequently, allowing the soil surface to dry out between watering. This helps to prevent more weed gemination. Do not be alarmed if your plants seem to grow slowly, prairie plants do.

Remember, prairie grasses grow down, not up, establishing root systems in their first year. The top growth normally amounts to narrow, pale green, straight leaves until late in the summer. If your site looks like it is dominated by the wildflowers, and even then they look weak, give the plot another year. Do not jump too fast for the herbicide to prepare the site again for another spring planting. Don't work so hard.

Once established, prairie grasses and wildflowers can dominate a site for many years with deep root systems that withstand drought, deter the growth of trees and help prevent wind and water erosion. These prairie plants also act as food and cover for a variety of birds including Wild Turkey, Bobwhite Quail, and songbirds, as well as a variety of small mammals and reptiles.

There are many other sources that have more in-depth information on site preparation, site work, burning, maintenance, and restoration work. This manual focuses on the growth and production of the seedlings. See the bibliography for more sources.